Imagine a holiday where the aroma of sizzling stir-fries and the clinking of chopsticks replace the traditional roast turkey and gravy. For many, Chinese food has become the unexpected Christmas tradition, and one Westbrook restaurant is at the heart of this culinary phenomenon. But here's where it gets intriguing: while families gather around their tables, a dedicated delivery driver named Paul Young is out braving the winter chill to ensure their festive feast arrives on time.
Paul, 63, is a familiar face at China Villa, a family-owned Chinese restaurant in Westbrook. With an old-school tally counter mounted near his steering wheel, he meticulously tracks his earnings—a combination of tips and delivery fees. Each click of the counter represents not just money, but a connection to the families he serves. For 18 years, Paul has spent his Christmases delivering orders, and this year is no different. He’s expected to earn around $300, a testament to the generosity of customers who rely on China Villa for their holiday meals.
But why Chinese food on Christmas? It’s a tradition that’s as much about convenience as it is about taste. Chinese restaurants are often the only eateries open on major holidays, and over time, their cuisine has become a beloved part of many families’ celebrations. For China Villa, Christmas Day is one of the busiest of the year, rivaling Christmas Eve and New Year’s Day. The restaurant anticipates 400 to 500 orders, with about 10% requiring delivery. Preparations begin days in advance, with industrial rice cookers keeping grains warm and 20 cases of homemade duck sauce ready to accompany nearly every order.
The menu favorites? Crab rangoon, beef teriyaki, and party trays loaded with over 50 appetizers. By 11 a.m., the kitchen is a symphony of sizzling woks and bustling staff, led by Nicki Yang and her mother-in-law, Qing Li. The phones ring incessantly, and for a brief hour during dinner time, they’re even taken off the hook to manage the overwhelming demand.
And this is the part most people miss: For Paul, delivering food isn’t just a job—it’s a lifeline. After years of battling depression in a sedentary office job, he found freedom behind the wheel. ‘The shifts go by so quick,’ he says. ‘I even look forward to coming to work.’ His warm yet introverted demeanor shines as he navigates Westbrook’s snow-covered streets, his Chevrolet a reliable companion. Unlike many gig workers, Paul has no interest in apps like DoorDash. His loyalty to China Villa and its owner, Qing Li, runs deep.
For customers like Eric Trombley and his family, China Villa is more than a restaurant—it’s a Christmas tradition born out of necessity. After the loss of Eric’s mother-in-law, the family decided to forgo cooking and focus on spending time together. ‘It stuck,’ Eric says with a smile. Ashleigh Densmore, another loyal customer, sums it up perfectly: ‘They’re lovely.’ Her family has been coming here for nine years, and she arrives in full holiday spirit, wearing a sequined Santa hat and a red dress.
But here’s the controversial question: Is Chinese food on Christmas a cultural appropriation, or a beautiful blending of traditions? Some argue it’s a convenient fallback for those who don’t celebrate Christmas in the traditional sense, while others see it as a heartfelt adoption of a cuisine that brings people together. What do you think? Is this holiday tradition a testament to cultural exchange, or something more complex?
As Paul returns to the restaurant for another round of deliveries, the kitchen hums with activity, and the dining area—stripped of furniture to accommodate waiting customers—is a testament to the restaurant’s popularity. For Paul, Nicki, Qing Li, and the countless families they serve, Christmas isn’t just about the food—it’s about connection, tradition, and finding joy in unexpected places. So, the next time you bite into a crab rangoon on December 25th, remember the people like Paul who make it all possible. And maybe, just maybe, leave a little extra in the tip jar.
